Jejak al-Misr 7: TheSteinberger Nile Palace

Trio in VOK(infront Ramses III tomb)
foto tomb gatekeeper BQ

From the Colossi of Memnon, our driver took us back to the east bank into Luxor city.It was about 4.00pm. Muhammad al-Gharbawi picked up the microphone and knocked his fingers over it,making the thud!Thud! sound over the PA system.

Muhammad: Okay,everyone listen to me,listen to me.Okay,all can hear me?

Some responded by a low "yeahhh..." but most are exhausted and trying to get a nap for the next 20 minutes ride into the city.

Muhammad: Okay everbody, we are now going to our hotel,our hotel. Its called the Steinberger Nile Palace and its a 5 star hotel. This is what we are going to do,okay! Now listen to me,listen to me. When we reached the hotel, the porters will carry your lugages from the bus to the lobby. You will wait in the lobby and identify your luggages. And then, Angel and I will give you your room keys. After you get the room keys, write your room number on the tag that we will give you,write your room number okay.Then the porter will bring your bags to your room.
Now remember, its up to you if you want t tip the porters Because the tip is included in your accomodation already. But if you want to give its up to you,its up to you. Understand?

He got some mumbling responses from our tired souls.

As we neared the Steinberger,Angel reminded us again: "Okay PARLO group! Remember what Muhammad said just now. Wait for your bags at the lobby and Muhammad and me will check-in and give you the keys. After you got your rooms, take a rest. We will go for dinner at 6.00 pm. We will have our dinner outside,not at the hotel.

Finally we arrived at the Steinberger Nile Palace hotel, its west side facing the Nile and its eat side facing the Khalid El-Walid street.

Steinberger Nile Palace,Luxor
tokasid BQ

At the hotel's sidewalk most of us gathered there,watching the porters take our luggages into the lobby. And I wonder why we stood there watching? Was it bcoz we are worried that our luggage might be mishandled? Or might get lost from the bus into the lobby(which was less that 20 metres away)? Or was it bcoz we don't trust the porters?For me,I just wanna make sure my luggages did get out of the bus' belly.

Inside the lobby(which is not big but nicely done and you have to pass through a body scanner) some sat on the provided sofa but most had to stand. While Angel and Muhammad was busy at the counter, we took a peek at whats available in the Steinberger. The courtyard is big and dotted with tables and chairs. Right in the middle is a small but attractive fountain.As you go west there are steps leading to the restaurants and bars and the western block of the hotel rooms.

Steiberger's courtyard
tokasid BQ

Steinberger: you can go here and there
tokasid BQ

Courtyard : pre-dawn
Hafiz N73

After 20 minutes or so, Angel and Muhammad asked us to gather for our keys. We got room 414, on the east side,facing the Khalid El_Walid street.

Angel: Okay!All have your keys now,right? You can go to your rooms now. The porters will carry your bags,but if you want to take it on you own,its up to you. My room will be 215.215. If there is anything you want or any problem at all,call my room. I will check with you all afterward,okay. And remember, be down here by 5.45pm because we will take the same bus again for our dinner.

Most were eager to be in the rooms. Some have had distended bladders for an hour or so.
We were given an extra bed for Hafiz, but since the room is spacious enough the 3 single beds doesn't hindred our movements. We asked for a sejadah and got the kiblat's bearing. I was informed that maghrib will be at 5.10pm( now this will sure cause a lot of headache to me). We managed to do our solat jamak and qasar for Zuhr and Asr'. My wife was exhausted at lie down(and fell asleep,as usual).Hafiz was busy with his new N73( he bought it 2 days before our trip).
I headed for my favourite place in any hotel,the balcony.Our room is on the 4th floor and the balcony overlooked the main street,Khalid El-Walid St.With a packof Gudang Garam,an ashtray, a Kuka Kula(Coca Cla) and Dean Koontz's Watchers I enjoyed my late noon on the balcony. The street was busy as most of the Luxorians are rushing home in cars, minivan taxis, horse carriages and some on donkeycarts! As a rule, honking was everywhere.Pet pot tit tit they honked each other. And the rhythmic clac!cluc! sounds of the horses' hooves make it like music.

They sky was brightly blue with spots of dense clouds decorating it. As dusk sets in, the visual changes that I witnessed was amazing. From the brightly blue sky it got into darker shades of blue and yellosh to orangish and different range of red before blackness takes over the sky. With it the clouds too produced a spectacular transformation. Its as if you are watching an art piece being drawn on canvas and conpleted within 15 minutes.

Steinberger Room 414
Hafiz N73

Steinberger's balcony: Luxor skylines
tokasid BQ

By 5.45 pm we went down to the lobby.The bus was there. Muhammad was having a fag with the bus driver.Everyone was eager for dinner,our first proper meal in Egypt.
Muhammad explained to us that he had chosen a restaurant which serves Egyptian food. The ride was about 15 minutes and finally we were at the Kebab Land, Big Boss restaurant.
Looking at the signboard: Big Boss restaurant. Ard al-Kebab, Kebab Land , Egyptian Test.
Certain things came to mind. I wondered if the owner is a fan of Bruce Lee's the Big Boss. Or maybe the boss is big(body size or any of his appendages for that matter). but it was the last line that made me curious. Egyptian Test.

Now what could that mean? We are here to test some Egyptian food or are we here to taste Egyptian food? But realizing that this spelling mistakes are worse in our country( be it in singboards,buntings or subtitles), I assumed it could mean Egyptian taste.

The restaurant was a small one which could 40 ppl at a time. Dinner came in courses( and all our set meals during the trip came in courses). The food was fantastic.

Kebab Land: Egyptian Test(shouldn't it be Taste?)
Hafiz N73

Food: the taste of Egyptian Test in Kebab Land
tokasid BQ

Kebab Land's landscape
Hafiz N73

On our way back to the Steinberger, Muhammad briefed us of our programme for tomorrow.
Muhammad:" Okay everbody! How was dinner? Good? Okay, tomorrow, wake-upcall will be at 4.30 am, 4.30 am okay. Be at the lobby by 5.30am. Bring down all your luggages.Don't leave anything behind. We are checking out at 6.00am.
Tomorrow morning we are going to Aswan and we must be with the convoy by 6.30am.if we are late we will miss the first convoy and will have to wait the next convoy at 11.00am.
We will have our breakfast on the bus.The hotel will prepare packed breakfast for us,okay! Understand everybody?

By 8.00pm we were in our room. Mrs TA was tired and sleepy but managed to watch TV( they have many channels too with recent movies and series). Hafiz...what else but his new gadget ,the N73. As usual, the balcony is mine. The street was still bustling with life. I slept at 2.00am that night( and that jumpstarted my recent episode of insomnia)



Next: I will skip the journey to Aswan,but will tell about Karnak and Luxor Temples(which we visited after we returned to Luxor on the cruise). Once I finished with Luxor I will write about Aswan and the cruise.


Peek-a-boo: the beautifully crafted crstal in Aswan:

Crystals..reasons for ladies to go Egypt
tokasid BQ

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Jejak al-Misr 6: Alabaster of al-Aqsar(Luxor)

Abu Shanab Pharoah of Alabaster
tokasid BQ

"Ahlan wa sahlan!Welcome!Welcome!",we were greeted by an elderly Egyptian man wearing a galabaiya and white serban.

"Come,come closer here",he waved his hands prompting us to gather around him into a shed.

"Closer,closer so you hear me clear. I am Abu Shanab, pharoah of alabaster.",he told us,introducing himself." Now,I tell you how to make alabaster. I make no. 1 alabaster1", he claimed.

"Now listen carefully what I tell you. Behind here, my workers do alabaster" he pointed to few of his workers who were holding some instruments and few pieces of limestone rocks. They were smiling shyly to us. Their eyes downward whenever someone wanted to take their photos.

Abu Shanab briefing us
tokasid BQ

Abu Shanab continued with his explaination on how things are made.From pieces of stone until a vase or bust or anything is produced. He showed us the simple instruments they use in his 'factory'(like our IKS/SMI)

After about 10 minutes, he invited us into his exhibition hall/shop for a drink, hibiscus juice and to look at the products( hoping we will buy something).

Inside the shop, there were carvings of various objects and subject of varying sizes and colors.
There are bust of King Tut, bust of Nefertiti(Akhenaten's queen. Akhenaten was label as the heretic pharoah for he practised monotheistic belief), figures of Anubis, vases, ashtrays,lampshades and others.

Everything looks so beautifully crafted. Abu Shanab cajoled us to buy his products but I guess all of us were tired of the long flight and the visit to Valley of the Kings. Nobody bought anything from Abu Shanab. He thanked us for coming . We thanked him for his hospitality and kindness.

We then boarded our bus and headed for Colossiof Memnon( see part 3)

Traditional instruments in Alabaster factory
tokasid BQ

Abu Shanab's workers giving a demo
tokasid BQ

Abu Shanab's exhibition hall
tokasid BQ

Final products of Alabaster
Hafiz N73

Bust of Nefertiti
tokasid BQ

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Jejak al-Misr 5: You think I'm elusive?

Salam to all.

These past few days had been hectic.Reasons?
1- Hafiz going back to school, so some shopping here and there.
2-Hunting for books.We received a letter from school that he didn't get the buku pinjaman. So, we started hunting for books in Melaka.Manage to get 3 books. There rest we got it from Czip Lee in Kajang. Still short of 4 books.
3-Lazy.Hah3.

Anyway,before I continue with the travl proper, I present two pjotos which Tokasid was in.
So, am not elusive after all,right?

Hey,Fir'aun! Mana hidong hang?
foto Hafiz N73

Me and Mrs TA at Aswan High Dam
foto Hafiz N73

Okay..puas hati??



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Jejak al-Misr 4: : Food.

Baked fish fillet
tokasid Nokia
( on board cruise ship)

Before I continue about Luxor, am gonna sidestep a bit today. But,not to worry.Its still about Egypt but not about the sightseeing part.Not about the tombs or ancient temples or about the Pharoah's loo.

Its about food. The kind of food that we had while in Egypt. I can't remember when or where I've eaten so much and so frequent except in Egypt. Every few hours interval there's meal for us.
By the time we came back, I can feel my waist getting bigger and my face became, as my friend said: Kembang!

Egyptian food: some,like me and Hafiz we love it so much that we didn't complaint. Some became fed-up after a few days and it goes like this: " Ayoo...every meal we have bread,bread and bread!".
Or like my mem: " I don't want to see anymore chickpea.Ever!"(and I would say to her: Chickpea soup la paling sedap sayang!")

Pitta and bread
tokasid Nokia
(Luxor)

We had rice over there. But the main staple is bread. Any kind of bread as long as they are bread.And pitta bread.
When it comes to rice, its a bit sticky like the beras siam.

Then they served you with lots of vege in the form of salads. There's cucumber( so sedap and no bitterness like some of our cucumbers). Any red juicy tomatoes that you would want to stop picking up and chew it slowly to savour the sweetish sour taste. And they have smoked brinjal which is acceptable to me(otherwise I'll only take brinjal pajeri).

They steamed carrots and potatoes and broccolis.
And the chickpea soups. So ever delicious that I'm drooling while writing this.

Dessert in the desert
tokasid Nokia
(Luxor)

On several occasions we had meatrolls that they barbecued . And somewhere in Giza we had barbequed pigeons! Thats really the best menu for me. The pigeon was tender and juicy.It was sweet.

The desserts were mostly sweet , so I rarely touch them except for the ice-cream cake and the fruits.

Fishes were smoked( on the ship and in Alexandria).

I know some of you are drooling at the moment. You would want a piece of tissue paper or your bath towel to wipe off your saliva.

Overall, the food on board the cruise ship was fantastic. It was tasty and the service was fast.The waiters were very helpful and friendly.

One negative remark though: We were told when we first arrived,by Muhammad, that for every meal we will be given 1 bottle of mineral water for 4 pax. 2 pax per small bottle. if you need more drinking water, then you'll have to pay extra. And the big bottle will coast you 4 EP.


Enjoy the food okay! Hmmm....I mean the photos of the food.

Kerp, your request dah fulfilled kan?

Papa,mama and 3 children
tokasid Nokia
(Luxor)

Jelly cream...sooo sweet
tokasid Nokia
(Luxor)

Steamed vege
tokasid Nokia
(Luxor)

...and a squeeze of lemon here!
tokasid Nokia
(on board cruise ship)

Help yourself
tokasid Nokia
(on board Nile cruise)

Healthy salads
Hafiz N73
(Kabab restaurant Luxor)

Simply delicious
hafiz N73
(on board Nile cruise)

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Jejak al-Misr 3: Valley of the Kings and Colossi of Memnon

King Tut( not King of kentut okay!) foto from internet

Luxor( al-Aqsa)
foto Hafiz Nokia N73

Luxor. Its actual name during the Ancient Egypt is Thebes(Greek word). When the Muslims came to Egypt, it was called al-Aqsar in Arabic. By native Egyptian lingo the al- is not pronounces as al- like we Malaysian do but with a silent alif(a), so its was pronounced as 'l-Aqsar. When the Europeans(Brits and French) colonised Egypt and started to explore the land al-Aqsar became Luxor,as per-European spelling.

Luxor is in Upper Egypt(southern) and one of the most famous open museum in the world,with its ancient monuments,temples,tombs and relics. If you have the time and patience just check it out here and here too.

Written in the stone
foto tokasid Nokia 3110c

As Muhamad had told us, our bus headed to the west bank of Nile in Luxor.From Luxor City(East bank of Nile) we went to Qena to take the bridge to get across the Nile to West bank. Our destinations is Valley of the Kings(VOK), the Alabaster factory and Colossi of Memnon.
The ride was a pleasant one. Plots of farming lands and villages dotted the west bank. We see farmers with their children working on these farms. Vegetables,sugar canes and bananas were everywhere.Everything is green from the river bank upto 500m- 1000m. Then its just desert and rocky hills beyond that. And there are long canals parallel to the Nile to irrigate the land.

After about 30 minutes we arrived at the Theban Hills with several villages at its foot. Villages which have alabaster(marble) as its cottage industry. As it is already in desert area it was dusty. You can see sand dust on the walls and roof of these houses.

After another 2km our bus took a road which took us towards the Theban Hills. Towards the Valley of the Kings ,the necropolis(City of the dead) here.

Valley of the Kings
foto tokasid BQ

VOK is a site where the tombs of Pharoah are. It is a huge burial site where the Pharoahs of the 18th Dynasty -20th Dynasty were buried( mummified) for their eternal life. Historically ,the first pharoah to be buried in VOK was Thutmose I. The VOK was choosen and built by Ineni, Thutmose I's advisor.

The VOK is different from the pyramids. During the Old Kingdom, most of the pharoah tombs are built as pyramids and mastaba. During the old kingdom the kings had their goverment in Lower Egypt(north) with Heliopolis and Memphis(Minf) as capital( thats Cairo now). Thats the reason we see pyramids are abundant in Lower Egypt.

With the New Kingdom the power centre shifted t upper Egypt(Thebes) after Upper and lower Egypt were unified. On the west bank of the Nile in Thebes, the Theban Hills had a peak which resembles the pyramid peak( al-Qurn or ta dehent in ancient Egypt lingo). Ineni opted for Theban Hills for that.And the site was secluded and far which will avoid grave robbers (the royals and rakyats were mainly on the east bank in those days and yes they do have grave robbers in those days too)). With that, VOK became the site of pharoahs final resting place. There are a total of 63 tombs in VOK and the most famous was that of King Tut Akhn Amun or as the world call him King Tut. ( Now do not think he was called that as in King of kenTut)

al-Qurn(ta dehent), the peak of Theben Hills
foto tokasid BQ

Now back to the trip, our bus climbed for about 1 km before we arrived at the VOK information centre. The sun was very bright and glaring but the the weather cold. We followed Muhammad into the VOK infocentre. He kept on yelling " PARLO! PARLO!"( Thats our tourgroup's name) ,asking us to gather around a model of the VOK.

VOK information centre
foto Hafiz Nokia N73

The VOK model is at the centre of the main hall. It depicits the VOK above and below ground. The above ground is shaped like the valley and with roads and colored pins were pinned to numbers corresponding the the kings' tombs. The lower part of the model shows the tombs, which way they were dug and how deep and long they are.

Model of VOK( VOK Info centre)
foto Hafiz Nokia N73

(model taken at split level. The lower part which appered jutting downwards depicits the tombs depth,lenght and direction into the Theban Hills)

There were lots of posters on the infocentre's walls with pics of the tombs in VOK .
Another PARLO!PARLO! from Muhammad we went out where buggy train were ready to take us to the entrance of VOK proper. 10 minutes and we were in front of the entrance(and ticket booth). Muhammad bought the tickets for us, at 70 Eygptian pounds each where you can enter the VOK and 3 tombs of your choice( if one wants to enter King Tut's tomb, one need to buy another ticket worth 80 EP)

Buggy ride into VOK
foto tokasid BQ

Ticket for VOK( enter 3 tombs)
foto tokasid BQ

With only 2 hours allocated for the VOK, and the fact that most of King Tut's treasures are in the Cairo Museum none of us bought the Tut's ticket.

A long walk into VOK with al-Qurn above
foto tokasid BQ

We walked into the VOK,lead by Muhammad.Angel will always be the last to make sure none of us are left behind or got lost in the tombs. In a big shed Muhammad explained to us about the history of VOK and who are the few famous pharoahs that are buried here. And he recommended to us the tombs (3) for us to go into and he highly recommended the tomb of Ramses IV for it is among the big tomb and the most beautiful with lots of carved murals and Herioglyphic writings. Another was Thutmose III where we would have to climb(stairs) for about 15m before descending underground for another 10m(2 level tomb) for about 50m in distance.Thutmose III's tomb is steep with the steps at 70 degree slant.It was very hot like a furnace.But it was worth all the trouble.No regrets going in there.

The third one which we(my family) took was that of Ramses III. It was the nearest to the shed and a small one,but with lots of colored carving murals and paintings. I did snapped a few photos with my Nokia( no kind of photography is allowed in the tombs or pyramids. If caught your camera will be confiscated and the authority can charge you).

At each tomb's entrance there will be a man maning the tomb and checking for your tickets(to make sure you do not enter more than 3 tombs of your choice). And maybe there will be another person inside who somethimes volunteer to become a guide and when you wanted to go out he'll ask for tips! And sometimes he will offer to snap your family photo using your camera at the entrance. You say thank you to him and he will put his palm open and say: Tip!Tip!.
So, nothing is free. We don't usually give because we have paid everything including tipping.

Climbing to Thutmoses III
foto tokasid BQ
(our biggest challenge is not climbing this 15m stairway but coming down from it later. It was so 'gayat')


Thutmose II..going down entrance
foto tokasid BQ

(after climbing 15m, we need to go down 10m for about 30m which is very steep at 70 degree slope. It was so warm inside more like a furnace, but it was worth the trouble)

King Tut's tomb
foto tokasid BQ

(didn't go in for lack of time)

At almost 3 pm, Muhammad gathered us and made head counts( you don't wanna leave anyone to sleep with Ramseses or Thutmoseses or Setis).The buggytrain took us back to VOK Infocentre. To get to our bus, we have to pass by the mini bazaar. This is where problem of hassling started. Muhammad had warned us to be careful and if possible play dumb with the stallowners or workers. If we need to buy anything bargain well and make sure you are familiar with the currency.

As we passed through it, we were tugged and pulled and coaxed into stalls by traders to buy their merchandies. We now know what to expect in future bazaars or souks in Luxor,Aswan and Cairo.

We then stopped by an alabaster cottage industry( later entry for this) before heading to the
Colossi of Memnon , here.


Colossi of Memnon was built by King Amenhotep III( of the 18th dynasty).Built as a mortuary temple in Thebes that was guarded by two gigantic statues on the outer gates. All that remains now are the 23 meter (75 ft) high, one thousand ton statues of Amenhotep III. Though damaged by nature and ancient tourists, the statues are still impressive.

Colossi of Memnon( with Hafiz)
foto tokasid BQ

Statue Amenhotep III
foto tokasid BQ

There were few buses loaded with tourist at the site. It was a magnificient sight. After a stick of Gudang, we headed back to Luxor City to check in into the hotel. Most of us needed the rest. And Muhammad promised to take us for an Egyptian dinner. Hopefully by then we will be able to break the ice among ourselves.

There are other site on west bank which we didn't go for time constraint like the Valley of the Queen,Tombs of the Nobles,Temple of Hatshepsut and Malkata.

I was tired but wasn't sleepy at all. There were so many things to see,to experience, to smell ,to taste. I know I'm gonna love Egypt and what it has to offer.

Next: Alabaster and food and food....


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